Meet Dubai abra’s ‘Big Brother’, who took thousands across Creek for 54 years

When Ahmed Abdi landed in Dubai on September 18, 1970, he saw a small, quiet town on both sides of the Creek. The only way people crossed the water was on wooden boats called abras.

“I was just 13 years old then,” said Abdi, who has been driving abras for 54 years now.

He flew in from Bandar Abbas, Iran, and arrived at the Dubai International Airport, which was far from the main town back then. “The airfare was only Dh60 to fly from Iran. It was the first time I ever left home,” he recalled.

At that time, Dubai was still a year away from becoming part of the UAE, and it was known as a busy trading port.

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First glance at the Creek

“I didn’t know what to do after I landed,” said Ahmed. “I went straight to my relatives’ home in Bastakiya. I slept the whole day. The next morning, my cousin took me out, and that’s when I saw the creek for the first time.”

Back then, Dubai Creek was not as deep as it is today. “It looked more like a narrow river with soft, sandy banks,” said Ahmed. The water sparkled under the sun, and wooden abras gently moved as they carried people between Bur Dubai and Deira – the two oldest parts of the city.

“There were no tall buildings, no glass towers. Most structures were just one storey. A two-storey building was a big thing. The skyline was flat, and the wind moved freely through wind towers and coral stone walls,” said the helmsman who steers boat number 63.

From a helper to a helmsman

Today, Ahmed is 67 years old and is lovingly called by his colleagues and long-time passengers ‘Bozorg’, which means big brother in Persian. He has been steering abras across the creek for over five decades.

He started his journey in the abra world with the help of his family. “My uncle was an abra driver. At first, I would just sit with him and collect money from passengers. Back then, every abra had two people in charge- one to steer the boat and one to collect fares.”

He described it as a job with non-stop movement. “We didn’t even have time to drink water. The abra was the city’s lifeline. People waited in long lines. Every trip was full.”

In those early years, there were only about 30 abras. Today, there are 150 traditional wooden boats and many modern electric ones, ferrying residents and tourists across the creek for just one dirham.

Ahmed has changed boats eight times, and the one he uses now has been with him for the last 30 years. “We used to sell our boats after using them for a few years, just like how people sell their cars today.”

Memories of old stations

Ahmed still remembers the old names of abra stations that have disappeared from today’s maps. What is now the busy Gold Souk station used to be called Bandar Talib. Baniyas station was Bandar Garage. Stations like Bazaar Murshid and Al Ras are now gone, Ahmed said.

“There used to be many stations. Now there are just four,” he said.

But one thing hasn’t changed: the sound and feel of the abra. “I still love the sound of the motor, the splash of water on the wooden boat, and the peaceful feeling as it glides across the creek.”

“When I close my eyes, I can still picture the old creek. It was quiet. The air smelled like salt and wood. Life moved much, much slower back then.”

Witness to Dubai’s evolution

Ahmed has seen it all – the birth of the UAE in 1971, the first buildings that touched the sky, the metro, and the shining towers of Downtown Dubai.

“I saw roads, parks, and bridges being built. Now, look at the skyscrapers, malls, trams, and people from all over the world,” he said. “But the abra, it’s still here.”

“My hair has turned grey, but my memory of Dubai is clear. I have seen the whole journey,” he added.

Even today, he begins work at 6am, greeting passengers and guiding his abra across the creek. “Some of my passengers now are the children and grandchildren of people I ferried in the 1970s and 1980s. I am proud to say I have served generations.”

A proud grandfather

Ahmed’s family still lives in Iran. He has eight children – five boys and three girls – and many grandchildren, some of whom are doctors and lawyers.

 “I am a proud grandfather,” he said with a smile.

Dubai’s floating memory

Dubai has become a modern city, but the abra and its longtime drivers remain a link to the past.

If you go to the creek today, you will likely find Ahmed there, with his enthusiasm, just like when he first arrived as a 13-year-old boy looking for a new life. Today, he is the elder of the creek, a living part of its history.

 “Dubai has given me everything,” said Ahmed. “And I have given my life to the abra.”